Products Needed:

Shot Blasting Machine, Grinding Machine, or Etching Acid
Broom & Vacuum (If using a Grinding Machine or Etching Acid)
Epoxy Floor Kit
Plastic Sheeting
Painters Tape
3/8” Nap Roller Covers
Roller Frame
Paint Extension Pole
3” Paint Brush
Drill & Stirring Bit
Paint Tray Liners
5 Gallon Bucket
Gloves

Choosing an Epoxy Coating

For a residential garage floor, a water based epoxy coating is recommended.  Water based epoxy coatings are user friendly –  they are easy to apply, emit low level fumes, and spills can be cleaned up with water whereas solvent based or 100% solid epoxy coatings cannot.  Solvent based or 100% solid epoxy coatings, generally used in commercial applications, are more durable.  However, they are more expensive, emit higher levels of hazardous fumes, and are more difficult to apply because of their thickness and quick dry time.   In my opinion, solvent based and 100% solid epoxy coating should be applied by a professional contractor who specializes in applying epoxy coating.  As a consumer, you most likely will not be able to purchase solvent based or 100% solid epoxy coatings without proper certification.

You can purchase epoxy coating from a paint supply company or home improvement center.  Sherwin Williams sells a product called H&C Shield-Crete Garage Floor Epoxy.  H&C Shield-Crete Garage Floor Epoxy 1-car garage (200 – 250 sq. ft.) kit sells for about $75.00 and includes epoxy base color, activator, a bag of Deco-Flakes, a packet of cleaner/degreaser powder and a packet of nonskid additive.  The Sherwin Williams H&C Shield-Crete Garage Floor Epoxy coating contains 46 ½% of solid epoxy.  Please keep in mind, that the higher the solid %, the more durable the epoxy.

SPECIAL NOTES:

If you want to apply epoxy coating to a new concrete floor, wait 30 – 60 days for the concrete to completely cure to allow for proper epoxy bonding.  A good way to test to see if the concrete has cured is to place a rubber mat or plastic taped on the floor and leave it overnight, if the concrete floor is damp or black/darkened where the mat/plastic was, then don’t apply the epoxy coating – the concrete floor has not cured.  Wait another 30 days and check it again, most likely the concrete will have cured by this time.  Personally, I recommend just waiting 60 days for the concrete floor to fully cure.

Do not apply epoxy coating in cold weather.  Wait until there is a consistent weather of 60 – 90 degrees before applying the epoxy coating.

If your garage floor is susceptible to excessive moisture then epoxy coating is not recommended, as the epoxy coating will not last.

The concrete garage floor must be roughed up prior to an application of epoxy coating, regardless of whether or not the floor is new, painted, and/or sealed.

Open the overhead garage door to provide proper ventilation.  You may also want to wear gloves, pants, and long sleeved shirt.  It probably won’t be necessary to wear safety masks when using water based epoxy, however you may want to keep children and animals away from the area, so they don’t inhale any fumes.

Step #1 (Repair Existing Surface, If Needed)

Repair any holes and/or large cracks in the concrete with a concrete filler.  There are various concrete fillers available such as Quikrete and Bondo.    If the existing garage floor is severely damaged it may need to be completely resurfaced.  If it is determined that the severe damage is caused by settling and/or heaving then the entire concrete garage floor may need replaced.

Step #2 (Prep Floor)

The easiest way to prep your concrete garage floor is to use a grinding or shot blasting machine to rough up the entire garage floor surface.  I recommend using a shot blasting machine, as it roughs up and cleans/vacuums the surface simultaneously.  If you use a grinding machine you will need to sweep and vacuum up the surface after you have roughed up the floor.  If there is sealer on the floor make sure the sealer is completely removed from the entire floor before apply the epoxy coating, as epoxy coating will not adhere to a sealer.   NOTE:  If water beads up on the floor is has been treated with a sealer.

You can also clean the floor with an all-purpose cleaner and then use an etching acid, however, this can be laboring and you may need to repeat the process.

Step #3 (Protect walls)

Tape plastic sheeting from bottom of edge of walls to a minimum of about 1’ foot high to prevent splattering of coating onto walls.

Step #4 (Epoxy Coating)

First, slowly mix the two part epoxy coating components together with a drill and a stirring bit – based on the square footage of your garage, pour enough in a 5 gallon bucket to complete a 1 coat application of epoxy.   I don’t recommend mixing enough for 2 coats.  Mix new coating when you are ready to complete the 2^nd application.  Once you have the two components together, then continue to mix for about 3 – 5 minutes until they are completely blended.  Wait for the two components to completely react with each other – follow the manufacturer’s instructions as to how long to wait before applying the coating.  Make sure you keep the epoxy coating out of the sun.  If the paint can feels warm don’t worry, it should, it means the two components are reacting with each other.   The manufacturer will also let you know how long you have to apply the coating – it can be anywhere from 2 – 24 hours.

Using a 3” paint brush apply the coating along the perimeters of the garage floor.  Then use a 3/8” nap roller w/frame attached to a paint extension pole and start applying the coating.  Coating a 2 car garage should take only about 1 hour.  Once you have the first coat of epoxy applied wait a minimum of 8 hours before applying the 2nd coat.   Use a 3” paint brush and apply coating again to the perimeters of the garage.  Then complete the 2^nd coat application.  Wait approximately 12 hours before walking on the floor and about five days before parking your vehicles in the garage.

Non-Skid Granules

If you want to help prevent a slippery floor, then use non-skid color granules.  There are two(2) ways to apply the non-skid granules, one is to add it directly to the coating mixture – making sure the granules are mixed in evenly.  The other way is to apply epoxy coating in sections of about 10’ x 10’ and then hand scatter the granules onto the epoxy coating – remember to scatter the granules as evenly as possible and don’t paint yourself into a corner.  The scattering method makes a rougher non-skid surface.

Glossy Top Coat

You can also apply a clear top coat to produce a shiny glossy finished coat – showroom floor finish.

Well, it was a lot of work, but now my garage floor looks like a new floor in my home and it’s a lot easier to clean.

I have considered changing my old standard thermostat for quite some time, but never got around to it, until it actually stopped working.  I found it was a lot easier than expected.  Save yourself money and do it yourself.

First, choose the thermostat right for you.    Most thermostats are fairly inexpensive – programmable and touch screen thermostats range anywhere from $25.00 – $100.00 with the average being about $50.00.  The old standard models are $25.00 – $50.00, so you may as well purchase a programmable thermostat and save energy costs by up to 33% setting the thermostat – higher (air) or lower (heat) when you aren’t home.    If you are a frequent traveler you may want to consider the Trane Remote Energy Management Thermostat which is on high scale of $150.00.  It can be controlled from a computer or phone with internet access.  The Trane Remote Thermostat is compatible with Schlage Link Systems.  Not only can you control the thermostat but you can control Schlage compatible door key pads, lights, and cameras.  The program will cost $12.00 a month but if you are away from home often it is a definite benefit.

First, shut-off the power to the room where the thermostat is located – push the breaker to off position in the breaker box.  Then remove the faceplate from the old thermostat.  Unscrew the old standard thermostat with Phillips screwdriver.  Newer models may just twist or pull off.  Next unscrew and remove the back plate.  If you have an older model thermostat it may contain mercury so be careful not to break the mercury tubing and check with a local recycling company, as to how to dispose the mercury contained thermostat.  (save your existing thermostat for a few weeks in case your new thermostat does not function properly).  Before you disconnect the wires make note of which wires go where (they should have different color and/or lettered tips), you will either have to unscrew/twist by hand counterclockwise (lefty loosey) or just pull loose.

Now you’re ready to install the new thermostat, match the new thermostat wires to the existing wires in your wall and connect (again this should be color coded or lettered), put the wires back in the wall and then commence to screw the new wall plate to the wall.  If the new thermostat has different color or letter wire connectors then check with instructions included with the thermostat, the instructions will tell you how to connect the mismatched wires.  Please note, if you mismatch the wires the thermostat will not work properly and may cause damage to your electrical system.  Use a level if necessary and mark on the wall where the new wall plate should be attached to the wall, and then use a Phillips screwdriver to screw the new wall plate on the wall.  Then snap on the new front wall plate.  Finally, turn back on the breaker and set your new thermostat.

If weather stripping on exterior doors  is deteriorated, a large of amount of cold air can evade your home and also cause higher electrical bills.  Weather stripping is fairly simple to replace.  First remove the old weather stripping – grab weather stripping at one end and pull.  If the adhesive is still secure at locations than apply alcohol over weather stripping to help dissolve the adhesive.  Once you have removed the weather stripping, remove any adhesive residue with soapy water and a scrubbing pad.

Measure the frame of the door  (width & length) and then visit your local hardware store.  There are various types of weather stripping available such as foam, rubber, metal, etc.    Ask one of the hardware representative’s  which weather stripping would be best for the area in which you live.

Cut the weather stripping to the length needed and then place it up to the door and remeasure the door with cut sections before you permanently attach it to your door.    You are now ready to install the weather stripping; keep the door open during installation.

Nailable Weather  Stripping – (First – Always wear protective glasses when installing metal weather stripping).    Start at the beginning of the weather stripping and then hammer in nails about every 12 inches, then again at the end of the weather stripping.

Adhesive Weather  Stripping -   Pull off backing in sections and adhere to door, do not remove the backing all at one time.  If you try to remove the backing all at once then you may end up with a sticky mess and loose some of the adhesive.

Some types of weather stripping may use both adhesive and nails.  Make sure the weather stripping does not buckle and that it fits snug.  The final test is to close the door and feel if there is any cold air coming into your home.

Tools Needed:

Water Pump Pliers
Teflon Tape
Scissors
Hex or Allen Wrench Set

First thing is to remove the spout.  Most standard models have 2 different ways to remove them.  Check the bottom of the spout to see if it has a hexagonal setscrew.  If this is the case, you need to use a hex wrench (sometimes called Allen wrench).   There is no standard hex size for shower spouts, so you may have to try a few different sizes.  Then loosen the setscrew completely and remove it from the shower wall.  If there is no hexagonal setscrew and the spout is not too tight you may be able to unscrew it by hand – Remember—“ Lefty Loosey” (turn left to loosen).  If it is too tight then use water pump pliers to unscrew it and remove.

The easiest way to find out which spout you need is to take the spout to your local hardware store and they will find the right replacement spout for you.  But, if you’d rather not take the spout to the store, then measure the length of the connection pipe coming out of the wall.   The connection pipe from the shower/tub wall can be anywhere from about 5” to barely protruding  from the shower wall.   Go to the store and purchase the same size and type of spout.

For a setscrew spout simply slip the new spout back onto the shower/tub wall and tighten the set screw underneath.  With a threaded spout, you first want to remove any old teflon tape and clean around the thread with a wet cloth, then wrap new teflon tape around the threads of the connection pipe.  Wrap the teflon tape in the same direction that you will be fastening on the new spout.  Wrapping teflon tape around the threads about three times generally suffices – make sure the teflon tape covers the complete threads, use scissors to cut the teflon tape.

Then screw the shower spout back on – Remember—“Righty Tighty” (turn right to tighten).  Then use water pump pliers to continue to tighten the shower spout.  When using the water pump pliers you want to make sure you cover the jaws with tape or a cloth so you don’t scratch your new water spout.  And there you have it.  Your new spout is installed.

Replacing a shower head is basically the same procedure.  Most connections are standard, so you don’t have to worry about what size shower head you buy.  Clean the threads, again removing any old teflon tape, wrap new teflon tape around the threads, and then fasten on your new shower head.  You don’t really any need any pliers to fasten the shower head, but beware — fastening the shower head too tight may cause leaks.   See I told you that was easy.    You may even want to consider purchasing one of the new shower heads that save water without sacrificing a good shower.

Tip #1

After moving the desired furniture pieces, place an ice cube in each dent.   The size of the dent will determine how many ice cubes are required.  Obviously, large or long dents will require multiple ice cubes.

Let ice cubes completely melt in each dent (this may take overnight).  As the ice cube melts, the nap will begin to spring back or fluff up, reducing the dent.

Check the results the next morning. If necessary, blot up excess water with white paper towel or colorfast cloth.

If the nap hasn’t completely returned to normal – or you just want to do some additional blending – use a table fork to gently lift remaining carpet fibers.

Tip #2

Move the furniture to the location of your choice. Vacuum the entire area picking up trapped debris beneath the furniture.  Run the edge of a quarter along the carpet fibers of the indented area and gently begin lifting them.

Dampen a cotton rag with water (wring tightly to remove excess).  Place dampened rag over the dented area.  Using a steam iron (set on medium heat or cotton setting) run the iron over the damp rag.  This will cause the smashed carpet fibers to spring back into place.

Let the carpeting dry and run the edge of the coin over the dented areas again. Vacuum a second time and the areas should be undetectable.

Tip #3

Spray the carpet indentation with water from a spray bottle. Thoroughly saturate the fibers.   Using a hair dryer (any hair dryer will work for this) to dry the fibers while using your fingers to pull and fluff the fibers back to their original standing position.  You can also use the edge of a spoon to work the fibers until they remain upright and the indention is gone.

Having watched a cabinetmaker repair a wooden leg or back of a chair in the past, it can be amazing how easily this problem can be remedied.  If the back of a chair has become so wobbly that it has fallen off, you can merely take a piece of paper grocery sack, saturate it with carpenter’s glue, and place it over the end of the piece of wood that will be placed back into its hole.  Also, saturate the hole itself with glue, being careful not to put too much glue into the hole.  Place the piece of wood back into the hole and secure it tightly with a practical vice so that it dries securely.  (The vice can be something as simple as a rope.)  It is important for the glue to be allowed to dry completely before putting any pressure or weight upon the product.  The size of the piece or product should determine the length of time it should dry.  The grocery paper melds with the wood to form a bond.

So the next time you’re about to break out the wallet to buy a new set of kitchen chairs, try this simple remedy instead of the costly purchase of a whole set of matching chairs.  Let us know if you have ever tried this remedy.  How did it work for you?

Rubbing Alcohol

You will need a clean, empty spray bottle;  unscrew the top; fill the bottle with two parts rubbing alcohol to one part water.  Replace the sprayer on the bottle; mix the solution by turning the bottle upside down and then upright a few times; spray the alcohol solution on the ice and——– wha-la, ice melts away.

Vinegar

Follow the same instructions for making de-icer with rubbing alcohol only mix water and white vinegar at a 50% ratio; spray the mixture directly onto the iced area; increase the white vinegar ratio if the iced area is especially thick or if the ice dissolves slowly.

Isopropyl Alcohol
Add three drops of liquid dish detergent to a bottle of isopropyl alcohol that is 70% purity or higher;shake vigorously to thoroughly mix the detergent and alcohol solution; pour into a clean, empty spray bottle; spray solution on the iced area (this works nicely on icy windshields).

Organize – gather all cleaning materials and equipment

Clean window sill and window frames first; if mildew is evident use a mixture of bleach, laundry detergent and water; rinse with clear water once cleaned.

Wipe down window glass with damp/wet towel to remove the excess dirt.

There are many different methods for cleaning windows.  The most popular being spray on glass cleaners and wiping with paper towels.  However, some swear by black and white newspaper to wipe the window instead of paper towels.  Yet others say the only thing to keep windows from streaking is to use a squeegee.  Or, if you are one who prefers using a cloth towel to clean & dry your windows, make sure it is a lint free material.

Suggested Cleaning Mixtures:
1)         Mix ¼ cup of vinegar to one quart of water; use in spray bottle.

2)         Mix 2 cups of warm water and 1/2 cup of cornstarch; use in spray bottle.

3)         Mix 1 quart water with ½ Cup rubbing alcohol; 1/8 cup ammonia; 1 teaspoon liquid dish soap.

Never clean your windows in direct sunlight.  The heat from the sun will dry the windows too quickly and cause streaking.  Try out different methods and see what works best for you for cleaning windows.

Disposals
Garbage disposals are a very high maintenance item usually resulting from operator failure.  Garbage disposals are not designed to grind bones, chicken skins, banana peels, coffee grinds, etc.  This type of waste will clog the disposal drain.  Run cold water into the disposal for a short time (15 seconds or so) before and after adding the food scraps.  Use lemon or orange peels in the disposal for a deodorizer – it works great and smells fresh and clean.

Drains
Make sure all drains have strainers. Strainers catch debris such as hair and prevent drains from stopping up.  Grease and cooking oils clog drains; don’t use the drain to dispose of these items.

Floors, Basement and Walls
Loose wall tiles in or near the bathtub area are an indication of water problems.  Locate the source and repair the plumbing as needed.  Sump pumps can be checked by pouring a few buckets of water into the pit.  The pump should kick on, pump out the water and then shut off with no problems.  If you have a basement, a battery operated flood alarm is a good idea.

Outside
Exterior drain areas require regular maintenance.  Check exterior faucets, especially in cold climate areas, for leaks.  If a leak is evident, it could be from a frozen pipe that busted.  Excess standing water might be an indication of a damaged sewer line.  This should be thoroughly checked and repaired immediately for sanitary reasons.  Keep gutter/downspouts free-flowing.  Clean them
regularly and keep them free of debris.

Toilets
Do not flush items down the toilet that will not easily dissolve or break up.  If you suspect a leak you can add a few drops of food coloring to the tank.  If there is a leak the color will show in the toilet bowl in a short time.  Make sure the toilet flushes properly.  If it continues to run after flushing and if you have to jiggle the handle, you may need to replace these parts.  This is a very minor expense and will save you in the long run on a cheaper water bill.

Mold thrives in damp, dark places like basements, shaded areas with no sunlight, brick and masonry surfaces.  Basements are a common place to find mold in a home.

Here are a few TIPS to clean and control mold:

Keep everything clean and as dry as possible.  Use dehumidifiers and air purifiers in high moisture areas.

Waterproof walls/wood/concrete surfaces.

Good air circulation reduces moisture.

Don’t paint over molded areas; mold will eat through paint, including Kilz.   These only camouflage the problem.

Removing mold does not necessarily kill it; there are numerous cleaners, chemicals and fungicide sprays available to remove mold; sprinkle chlorinated lime in basement areas to eliminate odors; use sodium hydrochloride (bleach solution) to remove mold and mildew.

Books:  sprinkle talcum powder or cornstarch to absorb any moisture that may be in your bookcase or in the book itself.

Wear waterproof gloves made from natural rubber, neoprene, or polyurethane, not the ordinary household rubber gloves, when cleaning with chemical solutions.  Use a longer length glove that extends to the middle of your arm.  DO NOT touch mold or mildew with bare hands.

Use goggles and breathing masks available at hardware stores or on the internet.  If you have a beard, consider shaving so you get a tighter fit with the breathing mask and therefore more protection.

Note:  For extreme and serious cases of mold growth contact professional mold remediation contractors.