Write down what you want the home to include such as number of bedrooms/baths, the square footage, number of stories, open floor plan, etc.  If your not in a rush, the best time to buy is in the off season, sellers are more likely to adjust their price when there is less competition.

You don’t even have to go anywhere to get an initial look at homes for sale – look online.   Generally, you will be able to see pictures of the home and the listing will show you most everything that a real estate agent would show you on paper.  Also when you look online, you can see more than one agent’s listings.

Next step is to choose a real estate agent.  85% of people who sell homes use real estate agents.  You want a real estate agent that is working for you, not a real estate agent who is selling the home you are looking at; remember they are working for the seller – if the seller makes more money so does the real estate agent.   Real estate agents generally receive 5% – 7% of the total purchase price.  You can also hire an exclusive buyer agent.  An exclusive buyer agent works on an hourly fee, contracted fee, or splits the commission with the seller’s real estate agent.

Don’t settle on the first house you see, look at least three homes before you decide.  Everyone has a wish list of what they what their home to include, however based on your budget you may have to adjust your list.  Before you make an offer, make sure you have checked at least three recently sold homes in the area which are comparable to the one you want to make sure the selling price is reasonable.  Once this has done,  it’s time to make an offer, most offers are approximately 10% less than the asking price, unless of course the sold comparables in the area are a lot less then the seller’s asking price, then your offer may be even less than 10%.   Speak with your real estate or exclusive buyer agent to get a better idea of what you should offer.   Then when all negotiations have been all done, then you will be asked to sign an Earnest Money Contract or sometimes called Purchase or Good Faith Contract.    You will be required to put a monetary percentage down to show you are buying the home pending banking approval and inspections.  In most cases it takes approximately one month for the sell to become final.  The earnest amount is generally 1% – 3% of the total purchase price.  The reasoning for paying earnest money is so the buyer is less likely to back out of the contract.  If the buyer forfeits on the contract, then the seller can keep the money for downtime in which seller has incurred, as they have wasted time in which they could have sold the property to someone else.   In many cases the seller returns the earnest money to the proposed buyer.

Now it’s time for a home inspection.  Items checked are the roof, chimney, soffit/fascia, gutters, cladding, windows, doors, decks, porches, lot area, heating, air conditioning, plumbing, electrical, flooring, walls, ceilings, bathrooms, kitchens, fireplaces, skylights, foundations, basement, and attics.  If there are defects, then the buyer may request that the defects are corrected before finalization of the home purchase, or the purchase price may be reduced by the cost it would take to correct the problem.  If defects are evident, make sure you get a figure to correct the problem from a reputable licensed contractor with correct license or permits needed to correct the problem.  If the defects are too costly or too drastic then the buyer may decline from purchasing the home.

The buyer will also be required to pay closing costs.  The buyer’s closing costs may consist of such items as title search, recording fees, document transfer taxes, city/county transfer fees, appraisals, etc.  The closing cost on a home range from 2% to 4% of the total purchase cost.  In some cases, the buyer opts for the owner to split the cost or even pay them all.

At last closing day and now you’re ready to move in.  What a wonderful feeling.  Now enjoy your new home and good luck.

Licenses/Permits/Building Codes:

Does the contractor have all the necessary licenses and/or permits required to complete the project?  Is the contracted work being completed in accordance with local building codes?  Call your cities building department with any questions about permits and building codes.  Check with your states licensing department to see if there are any licenses required for the type of work you are having completed on your residence.    For instance, in Illinois all roofers are required to have a roofing license.

Insurance:

Does the contractor carry insurance?  What type of insurance do they carry?  All contractors should have General Liability and Worker’s compensation insurance.  General Liability coverage covers damage to your property due to an accident, faulty workmanship, damage to your property and injuries to someone as a result of the contractor’s operations.  Worker’s Compensation covers the contractor’s employees with medical and disability insurance for on the job injuries.

References:

Other things you want to get from your bidding contractors are references; make sure the references are from customers who have completed the same type of renovation you are looking for.   Contractors should not have a problem giving you at least three references which include phone numbers and addresses.   Some questions you may want to ask the referrals  are:   Were there any problems during or after the completion of your project?  Were there any unexpected fees charged?  Was the job completed professionally?  Did the contractor keep the area clean of trash and debris?  May I come by and examine the work?  Would you hire the contractor again?

Subcontractors

General Contractors are qualified to handle numerous subcontractors for completion of larger building projects.  Their expertise will provide good quality subcontractors to complete a successful project.  There is a fee for the General Contractor to supervise these portions of the project.  This fee is normally negotiable depending on the size of the project and the individual contractor.

Warranties:

Are warranties included with work you want completed?   What does the warranty cover and how long is the warranty period?

Written Contracts:

Don’t’ give verbal authorization to complete a project.  Make sure the contractor provides you with a written contract which includes the procedures required to complete the work.   Also are brand names, styles, sizes, and/or colors listed?  The contract should also include all the contractors contact information, such as address, phone/cell number, fax, and/or email.   Are warranties and payment terms stated in the contract?  Do not pay for the entire project upfront; paying for the project upfront gives the contractor little motivation to complete the project in a timely manner.  Does the contract state how any additional work and/or change orders will be addressed?    You want to make sure you are aware and approve any additional work or changes, before they occur.

These are the basics on hiring a contractor.   Compare all bids.  Don’t necessarily go with the lowest bid.  Which company do you feel will satisfactorily complete your project?  Are the contractors using the same quality products?   Are the contractors using exactly the same procedures?  Compare apples to apples.  If the contractors use different procedures and products then the contract costs will vary.

What about a down payment?   For many mortgages a down payment will be required.   Ideally most banks like for new home owners to pay 20% of the total home value upfront, however you may be able to purchase a home with as little as 3% – 5% down .  Based on the mortgage loan, you may not have to put anything down.  You can get zero down loans from large credit unions, Veterans Affairs (Administration), Navy Federal Credit Union, or Department of Agriculture (Rural Development). Veterans Affairs offers zero down loans to regular military, reserves, or national guard; funding fees are based on division of military and whether it is first time mortgage loan or subsequent .  The funding fees may be as low as 2.5% – 3.3%, and is added to the amount of the loan.  The Navy Federal Credit Union also provides a zero down loan, however it is restricted to members of the military, civilian employees of the military, U.S. Department of Defense, and family members.  Their funding fees are 1.75% less than VA’s funding fee.  Department of Agriculture (Rural Development) zero down loans are based on your income and have limited funds which are revamped annually.  Department of Agriculture also has 2% guarantee fee which is added to the loan amount.  Department of Agriculture mortgage loans are not limited to farmland.  Then there are Federal Housing Administration (FHA) insured loans with as little as 3.5% down.  30% of all home owners use this type of loan.  Their mortgage fee is an upfront 2.25% amount of loan.

What is the term period you are looking for – 15, 30, or 40 years?  Do want a fixed or variable loan? With such low fixed rates offered in this current economy most people prefer fixed loans with interest as low as 2+%.  Fixed, as it states, remains the same interest rate for the entire term of the loan.  However,  you may only be able to get an adjustable rate mortgage (ARM).   An ARM is based on the current economic index plus margin.  Margin is the lenders overhead and profit.   The margin usually stays the same for the life of the loan.  With a variable ARM mortgage, the interest rate is set for a specific period of time  (1-7 years), then the interest rate changes.  With an ARM mortgage the interest can only increase or decrease by a certain amount when the term is up for renewal.   At one time it was better to get an ARM mortgage loan as the interest rate for the 1^st period was generally lower than a fixed rate loan.  However, the interest rate can continue to increase each term.  You also don’t have to be limited to one or the other.  You may start out with an ARM mortgage and then later on you can switch to a fixed rate loan or vice versa.   Be very careful not to get in a place where your mortgage is in a negative amortization state.  Negative amortization is when you are paying less interest in the payment than what is due, thus the unpaid interest is added back into the loan and you end up paying interest on interest.  Negative amortization usually is a result of biting off more than you can chew, which is part of the reason why the United States is having so much problem with foreclosure.

Do you want to buy points?  If you are planning to stay in your new home for longer than 5 years, then buying points will save you money.  Make sure you are paying a discount point and not an origination point.   An origination point is a fee paid to your lender for preparing your loan and is not tax deductible A discount point is buying a point to pay part of the interest upfront and getting a lower interest rate.  A discount point is equal to 1% of your total home loan.   Each discount point will lower your interest rate by .25%.  You can buy up to 3 discount points.

Get preapproved, check out loaning institutions  and see how much money you can be approved for.   You don’t want to get interested in a home only to find out you don’t qualify and can’t get it.   Don’t confuse preapproval with prequalification.  Preapproval is based on your actual income, debt, and credit history, whereas, prequalification is basically a ballpark estimation of your finances.  You could possibly hire a mortgage broker; a mortgage broker get rates from various lenders in order to give you the best and most cost efficient options for a home loan.   Their fee is generally 1.5% – 3% of the total cost of the home’s purchase price.

Products Needed:

Shot Blasting Machine, Grinding Machine, or Etching Acid
Broom & Vacuum (If using a Grinding Machine or Etching Acid)
Epoxy Floor Kit
Plastic Sheeting
Painters Tape
3/8” Nap Roller Covers
Roller Frame
Paint Extension Pole
3” Paint Brush
Drill & Stirring Bit
Paint Tray Liners
5 Gallon Bucket
Gloves

Choosing an Epoxy Coating

For a residential garage floor, a water based epoxy coating is recommended.  Water based epoxy coatings are user friendly –  they are easy to apply, emit low level fumes, and spills can be cleaned up with water whereas solvent based or 100% solid epoxy coatings cannot.  Solvent based or 100% solid epoxy coatings, generally used in commercial applications, are more durable.  However, they are more expensive, emit higher levels of hazardous fumes, and are more difficult to apply because of their thickness and quick dry time.   In my opinion, solvent based and 100% solid epoxy coating should be applied by a professional contractor who specializes in applying epoxy coating.  As a consumer, you most likely will not be able to purchase solvent based or 100% solid epoxy coatings without proper certification.

You can purchase epoxy coating from a paint supply company or home improvement center.  Sherwin Williams sells a product called H&C Shield-Crete Garage Floor Epoxy.  H&C Shield-Crete Garage Floor Epoxy 1-car garage (200 – 250 sq. ft.) kit sells for about $75.00 and includes epoxy base color, activator, a bag of Deco-Flakes, a packet of cleaner/degreaser powder and a packet of nonskid additive.  The Sherwin Williams H&C Shield-Crete Garage Floor Epoxy coating contains 46 ½% of solid epoxy.  Please keep in mind, that the higher the solid %, the more durable the epoxy.

SPECIAL NOTES:

If you want to apply epoxy coating to a new concrete floor, wait 30 – 60 days for the concrete to completely cure to allow for proper epoxy bonding.  A good way to test to see if the concrete has cured is to place a rubber mat or plastic taped on the floor and leave it overnight, if the concrete floor is damp or black/darkened where the mat/plastic was, then don’t apply the epoxy coating – the concrete floor has not cured.  Wait another 30 days and check it again, most likely the concrete will have cured by this time.  Personally, I recommend just waiting 60 days for the concrete floor to fully cure.

Do not apply epoxy coating in cold weather.  Wait until there is a consistent weather of 60 – 90 degrees before applying the epoxy coating.

If your garage floor is susceptible to excessive moisture then epoxy coating is not recommended, as the epoxy coating will not last.

The concrete garage floor must be roughed up prior to an application of epoxy coating, regardless of whether or not the floor is new, painted, and/or sealed.

Open the overhead garage door to provide proper ventilation.  You may also want to wear gloves, pants, and long sleeved shirt.  It probably won’t be necessary to wear safety masks when using water based epoxy, however you may want to keep children and animals away from the area, so they don’t inhale any fumes.

Step #1 (Repair Existing Surface, If Needed)

Repair any holes and/or large cracks in the concrete with a concrete filler.  There are various concrete fillers available such as Quikrete and Bondo.    If the existing garage floor is severely damaged it may need to be completely resurfaced.  If it is determined that the severe damage is caused by settling and/or heaving then the entire concrete garage floor may need replaced.

Step #2 (Prep Floor)

The easiest way to prep your concrete garage floor is to use a grinding or shot blasting machine to rough up the entire garage floor surface.  I recommend using a shot blasting machine, as it roughs up and cleans/vacuums the surface simultaneously.  If you use a grinding machine you will need to sweep and vacuum up the surface after you have roughed up the floor.  If there is sealer on the floor make sure the sealer is completely removed from the entire floor before apply the epoxy coating, as epoxy coating will not adhere to a sealer.   NOTE:  If water beads up on the floor is has been treated with a sealer.

You can also clean the floor with an all-purpose cleaner and then use an etching acid, however, this can be laboring and you may need to repeat the process.

Step #3 (Protect walls)

Tape plastic sheeting from bottom of edge of walls to a minimum of about 1’ foot high to prevent splattering of coating onto walls.

Step #4 (Epoxy Coating)

First, slowly mix the two part epoxy coating components together with a drill and a stirring bit – based on the square footage of your garage, pour enough in a 5 gallon bucket to complete a 1 coat application of epoxy.   I don’t recommend mixing enough for 2 coats.  Mix new coating when you are ready to complete the 2^nd application.  Once you have the two components together, then continue to mix for about 3 – 5 minutes until they are completely blended.  Wait for the two components to completely react with each other – follow the manufacturer’s instructions as to how long to wait before applying the coating.  Make sure you keep the epoxy coating out of the sun.  If the paint can feels warm don’t worry, it should, it means the two components are reacting with each other.   The manufacturer will also let you know how long you have to apply the coating – it can be anywhere from 2 – 24 hours.

Using a 3” paint brush apply the coating along the perimeters of the garage floor.  Then use a 3/8” nap roller w/frame attached to a paint extension pole and start applying the coating.  Coating a 2 car garage should take only about 1 hour.  Once you have the first coat of epoxy applied wait a minimum of 8 hours before applying the 2nd coat.   Use a 3” paint brush and apply coating again to the perimeters of the garage.  Then complete the 2^nd coat application.  Wait approximately 12 hours before walking on the floor and about five days before parking your vehicles in the garage.

Non-Skid Granules

If you want to help prevent a slippery floor, then use non-skid color granules.  There are two(2) ways to apply the non-skid granules, one is to add it directly to the coating mixture – making sure the granules are mixed in evenly.  The other way is to apply epoxy coating in sections of about 10’ x 10’ and then hand scatter the granules onto the epoxy coating – remember to scatter the granules as evenly as possible and don’t paint yourself into a corner.  The scattering method makes a rougher non-skid surface.

Glossy Top Coat

You can also apply a clear top coat to produce a shiny glossy finished coat – showroom floor finish.

Well, it was a lot of work, but now my garage floor looks like a new floor in my home and it’s a lot easier to clean.

The downside of the Bloomframe Fold-Out Balcony is the cost which averages from $11,500.00 – $14,500.00.   Each Bloomframe Fold-Out Balcony is custom made so it can be built to your specifications.  Sizes can range from approximately 8’6” long x 3’6” wide.  For more information visit their website at www.bloomframe.com.

Geothermal systems are generally anywhere from $10,000 – $25,000 installed which can be quite a bit more expensive than the old furnace and central air units, due to the in ground looping systems and heat pumping unit.  However, once the units are up and running there is very little maintenance and you can expect to regain the installation cost within 6 – 10 years.  Of course, an extra plus are federal rebates offered.

One main benefit of geothermal systems is that one unit provides both heating and cooling.  Geothermal systems consume 25-50% less energy than traditional oil and natural gas systems, and 70% less than electric heating and air conditioning.  The average cost to heat and cool a 2,000 sq. ft. home is approximately $1.00 per day – no other system that I know of can beat that.

While the heat pumps use electricity to operate, the system is very efficient as it does not use the air’s temperature but rather the earth’s temperature.   Geothermal systems use the temperature of the Earth just a few feet below ground level where temperatures remain fairly stable from 45 degrees – 60 degrees Fahrenheit year around.

Geothermal heating and cooling systems consist of a heat pump, ground looping coils, heat exchange fluid, heating/cooling ducts, and thermostat.  The heat pump is located inside your residence and is the main component of the system.  The heating/cooling ducts and thermostat are the same as any forced air heating and/or central air conditioning ducts, so if you are replacing your old units with a new Geothermal heating and cooling system then the duct work/thermostat replacement is not needed.

There are 4 types of ground loop systems:  three are closed looped (horizontal, vertical, and pond/lake) and the other is open looped. There are several variables that must be taken into consideration before the appropriate ground loop system is determined, such as available land, soil conditions, climate, and installation cost.  The ground looping coils are filled with refrigerant such as water or anti-freeze solution, the type of refrigerant depends on the looping system.  Water being the most commonly used refrigerant.

So if you are looking at replacing your heating and cooling systems or are building a new home you may want to consider a “Green”  energy efficient Geothermal Heating & Cooling System and remember to get a proposal from an experienced contractor who deals specifically with Geothermal Heating & Cooling Systems.

The cost effective energy improvements include upgrading of insulation, furnaces, central air systems, and windows.   These improvements will increase the home’s energy efficiency by at least 20%.   As many as 1,000 Illinois co-op homeowners have upgraded to high efficiency air-source heat pumps (doubles energy efficiency – 200%), or ultra-high efficiency geothermal heat pump systems (350% – 400% energy efficient).  By the time the HomE program ends (July 2011), it is anticipated that the equivalent of 20 million kilowatts hours of electricity will be saved each year in Illinois alone.  Additionally, 5,000 metric tons of carbon dioxide will be removed from the atmosphere each year.

If you live in a rural area and are serviced by an electric cooperative, from any state, check out what services and/or rebates are available through the American Recovery and Reinvestment Act.  Act soon before the funds are gone.

A bidet is a “Green” innovation – think how many trees we could save.  Purchasing a bidet would definitely pay for itself by the amount of money we spend on toilet paper alone. They are very hygienic and can be used for medically needed sitz baths as well as for senior citizens, the disabled/handicapped, and overweight people with limited mobility.

A bidet doesn’t necessarily have to cost a lot of money.  The non-electric seat bidet attachments can be as simple as a hand shower spray attached to your cold water connection. However, a better option would be to purchase a bidet attachment that can connect to both hot and cold water connections.  This can be rather simple if your toilet is next to your bathroom sink.    Non-electric cold/hot water bidets range from approximately $70.00 – $150.00.   The non-electric bidet hoses are ran between the toilet and toilet seat.  The non-electric bidet is a definite “Green” product – no electricity and no paper.

The next fairly inexpensive version of a bidet is actually an electric bidet toilet seat and it connects to any standard electrical outlet.  The electric bidet has many variations or should I say bells and whistles.  Such bells and whistles are warm water, retractable hoses/sprayers, oscillating and/or pulsating water, front and rear washing, warm air to dry your derriere, warm toilet seat, massaging features, deodorizers, motion sensors to lift/lower the seat or to flush it, and wireless remote control.  The cost for an electric bidet toilet seat can range anywhere from approximately $350.00 – $500.00.  In my opinion the electric bidet toilet seat is the best option, it’s affordable, it’s easy to install, doesn’t take up any additional room, has all the bells and whistles, and takes as little as 20 minutes to install.

Of course, if you really want to be fancy you can install a stand alone bidet.  Many stand alone bidets are only used for washing and you still need a toilet.   You will see most stand alone bidet in high end hotels and restaurants.  Stand alone bidet can be rather expensive and range anywhere from $500.00 – $3,000.00.

I have considered changing my old standard thermostat for quite some time, but never got around to it, until it actually stopped working.  I found it was a lot easier than expected.  Save yourself money and do it yourself.

First, choose the thermostat right for you.    Most thermostats are fairly inexpensive – programmable and touch screen thermostats range anywhere from $25.00 – $100.00 with the average being about $50.00.  The old standard models are $25.00 – $50.00, so you may as well purchase a programmable thermostat and save energy costs by up to 33% setting the thermostat – higher (air) or lower (heat) when you aren’t home.    If you are a frequent traveler you may want to consider the Trane Remote Energy Management Thermostat which is on high scale of $150.00.  It can be controlled from a computer or phone with internet access.  The Trane Remote Thermostat is compatible with Schlage Link Systems.  Not only can you control the thermostat but you can control Schlage compatible door key pads, lights, and cameras.  The program will cost $12.00 a month but if you are away from home often it is a definite benefit.

First, shut-off the power to the room where the thermostat is located – push the breaker to off position in the breaker box.  Then remove the faceplate from the old thermostat.  Unscrew the old standard thermostat with Phillips screwdriver.  Newer models may just twist or pull off.  Next unscrew and remove the back plate.  If you have an older model thermostat it may contain mercury so be careful not to break the mercury tubing and check with a local recycling company, as to how to dispose the mercury contained thermostat.  (save your existing thermostat for a few weeks in case your new thermostat does not function properly).  Before you disconnect the wires make note of which wires go where (they should have different color and/or lettered tips), you will either have to unscrew/twist by hand counterclockwise (lefty loosey) or just pull loose.

Now you’re ready to install the new thermostat, match the new thermostat wires to the existing wires in your wall and connect (again this should be color coded or lettered), put the wires back in the wall and then commence to screw the new wall plate to the wall.  If the new thermostat has different color or letter wire connectors then check with instructions included with the thermostat, the instructions will tell you how to connect the mismatched wires.  Please note, if you mismatch the wires the thermostat will not work properly and may cause damage to your electrical system.  Use a level if necessary and mark on the wall where the new wall plate should be attached to the wall, and then use a Phillips screwdriver to screw the new wall plate on the wall.  Then snap on the new front wall plate.  Finally, turn back on the breaker and set your new thermostat.

Overall
* Clear the path.
* Do not clutter the room.
* Minimize furniture and accessories/knick knacks – less is more.
* Use cool light colors and monochromatic palette – make rooms seem larger than they are.
* A light color floor gives the illusion of more space and creates a serene environment.
* Lighting – use recessed lighting, places uplights and downlights.
* Hang a flat screen TV on the wall.
* Small print wallpaper makes rooms look smaller, use open flowing designs when installing wallpaper.
* Closets – use closet organizer and mount shelves.

Low Ceilings
* Striped wallpaper or vertical wallpaper will add height to ceilings.
* Grouping of various size pictures arranged in a more horizontal pattern will elevate the feeling of height.
* Sloped ceilings such as dormer roof lines should be painted the same color as walls to minimize sloped effect.

Living Room
* Make use of pieces that do double duty such as coffee and end tables that also serve as storage.

Bedroom
* Utilize space under beds (bedskirts will cover items stored under beds.)
* If you have a loft style apartment – use beds that retract from either the floor or ceiling.

Bathroom
* Expand sink counter top over toilet (will not be a standard size bathroom sink top). This type counter
top will need to be fabricated/cut to designated lengths/widths.
* Use wall hung vanities which do not extend to the floor. Wall hung vanities give an appearance of a
larger room.
* Use shelving or recessed medicine cabinet.
* Limit the amount of towels stored in the bathroom; use over the door racks for towels.
* If you have access to a hall closet, use it for bathroom storage.
* Use one(1) piece of larger art instead of lots of small pieces.
* If using shower doors – trade a frosted glass door for a clear one. Better yet don’t use a shower
door at all – use shower curtains that can be pushed back.

Kitchen
* U-shaped or galley kitchens utilize small spaces wonderfully.
* Install an island at end of a U-shaped or galley kitchen to create an eat-in kitchen while utilizing
the cabinets below.
* Put bills and paperwork in small baskets or boxes.
* Large floor tiles make a kitchen look larger.
* Include a pullout pantry and/or lazy Susan cabinets.
* Create a full wall of cabinets which extends to the ceiling and include a refrigerator in the center
section of space.
* Purchase a counter top depth refrigerator which also has a reduced door swing.
* Install a basic stove range with bottom storage instead of a broiler.