Products Needed:

Shot Blasting Machine, Grinding Machine, or Etching Acid
Broom & Vacuum (If using a Grinding Machine or Etching Acid)
Epoxy Floor Kit
Plastic Sheeting
Painters Tape
3/8” Nap Roller Covers
Roller Frame
Paint Extension Pole
3” Paint Brush
Drill & Stirring Bit
Paint Tray Liners
5 Gallon Bucket
Gloves

Choosing an Epoxy Coating

For a residential garage floor, a water based epoxy coating is recommended.  Water based epoxy coatings are user friendly –  they are easy to apply, emit low level fumes, and spills can be cleaned up with water whereas solvent based or 100% solid epoxy coatings cannot.  Solvent based or 100% solid epoxy coatings, generally used in commercial applications, are more durable.  However, they are more expensive, emit higher levels of hazardous fumes, and are more difficult to apply because of their thickness and quick dry time.   In my opinion, solvent based and 100% solid epoxy coating should be applied by a professional contractor who specializes in applying epoxy coating.  As a consumer, you most likely will not be able to purchase solvent based or 100% solid epoxy coatings without proper certification.

You can purchase epoxy coating from a paint supply company or home improvement center.  Sherwin Williams sells a product called H&C Shield-Crete Garage Floor Epoxy.  H&C Shield-Crete Garage Floor Epoxy 1-car garage (200 – 250 sq. ft.) kit sells for about $75.00 and includes epoxy base color, activator, a bag of Deco-Flakes, a packet of cleaner/degreaser powder and a packet of nonskid additive.  The Sherwin Williams H&C Shield-Crete Garage Floor Epoxy coating contains 46 ½% of solid epoxy.  Please keep in mind, that the higher the solid %, the more durable the epoxy.

SPECIAL NOTES:

If you want to apply epoxy coating to a new concrete floor, wait 30 – 60 days for the concrete to completely cure to allow for proper epoxy bonding.  A good way to test to see if the concrete has cured is to place a rubber mat or plastic taped on the floor and leave it overnight, if the concrete floor is damp or black/darkened where the mat/plastic was, then don’t apply the epoxy coating – the concrete floor has not cured.  Wait another 30 days and check it again, most likely the concrete will have cured by this time.  Personally, I recommend just waiting 60 days for the concrete floor to fully cure.

Do not apply epoxy coating in cold weather.  Wait until there is a consistent weather of 60 – 90 degrees before applying the epoxy coating.

If your garage floor is susceptible to excessive moisture then epoxy coating is not recommended, as the epoxy coating will not last.

The concrete garage floor must be roughed up prior to an application of epoxy coating, regardless of whether or not the floor is new, painted, and/or sealed.

Open the overhead garage door to provide proper ventilation.  You may also want to wear gloves, pants, and long sleeved shirt.  It probably won’t be necessary to wear safety masks when using water based epoxy, however you may want to keep children and animals away from the area, so they don’t inhale any fumes.

Step #1 (Repair Existing Surface, If Needed)

Repair any holes and/or large cracks in the concrete with a concrete filler.  There are various concrete fillers available such as Quikrete and Bondo.    If the existing garage floor is severely damaged it may need to be completely resurfaced.  If it is determined that the severe damage is caused by settling and/or heaving then the entire concrete garage floor may need replaced.

Step #2 (Prep Floor)

The easiest way to prep your concrete garage floor is to use a grinding or shot blasting machine to rough up the entire garage floor surface.  I recommend using a shot blasting machine, as it roughs up and cleans/vacuums the surface simultaneously.  If you use a grinding machine you will need to sweep and vacuum up the surface after you have roughed up the floor.  If there is sealer on the floor make sure the sealer is completely removed from the entire floor before apply the epoxy coating, as epoxy coating will not adhere to a sealer.   NOTE:  If water beads up on the floor is has been treated with a sealer.

You can also clean the floor with an all-purpose cleaner and then use an etching acid, however, this can be laboring and you may need to repeat the process.

Step #3 (Protect walls)

Tape plastic sheeting from bottom of edge of walls to a minimum of about 1’ foot high to prevent splattering of coating onto walls.

Step #4 (Epoxy Coating)

First, slowly mix the two part epoxy coating components together with a drill and a stirring bit – based on the square footage of your garage, pour enough in a 5 gallon bucket to complete a 1 coat application of epoxy.   I don’t recommend mixing enough for 2 coats.  Mix new coating when you are ready to complete the 2^nd application.  Once you have the two components together, then continue to mix for about 3 – 5 minutes until they are completely blended.  Wait for the two components to completely react with each other – follow the manufacturer’s instructions as to how long to wait before applying the coating.  Make sure you keep the epoxy coating out of the sun.  If the paint can feels warm don’t worry, it should, it means the two components are reacting with each other.   The manufacturer will also let you know how long you have to apply the coating – it can be anywhere from 2 – 24 hours.

Using a 3” paint brush apply the coating along the perimeters of the garage floor.  Then use a 3/8” nap roller w/frame attached to a paint extension pole and start applying the coating.  Coating a 2 car garage should take only about 1 hour.  Once you have the first coat of epoxy applied wait a minimum of 8 hours before applying the 2nd coat.   Use a 3” paint brush and apply coating again to the perimeters of the garage.  Then complete the 2^nd coat application.  Wait approximately 12 hours before walking on the floor and about five days before parking your vehicles in the garage.

Non-Skid Granules

If you want to help prevent a slippery floor, then use non-skid color granules.  There are two(2) ways to apply the non-skid granules, one is to add it directly to the coating mixture – making sure the granules are mixed in evenly.  The other way is to apply epoxy coating in sections of about 10’ x 10’ and then hand scatter the granules onto the epoxy coating – remember to scatter the granules as evenly as possible and don’t paint yourself into a corner.  The scattering method makes a rougher non-skid surface.

Glossy Top Coat

You can also apply a clear top coat to produce a shiny glossy finished coat – showroom floor finish.

Well, it was a lot of work, but now my garage floor looks like a new floor in my home and it’s a lot easier to clean.

The downside of the Bloomframe Fold-Out Balcony is the cost which averages from $11,500.00 – $14,500.00.   Each Bloomframe Fold-Out Balcony is custom made so it can be built to your specifications.  Sizes can range from approximately 8’6” long x 3’6” wide.  For more information visit their website at www.bloomframe.com.

Geothermal systems are generally anywhere from $10,000 – $25,000 installed which can be quite a bit more expensive than the old furnace and central air units, due to the in ground looping systems and heat pumping unit.  However, once the units are up and running there is very little maintenance and you can expect to regain the installation cost within 6 – 10 years.  Of course, an extra plus are federal rebates offered.

One main benefit of geothermal systems is that one unit provides both heating and cooling.  Geothermal systems consume 25-50% less energy than traditional oil and natural gas systems, and 70% less than electric heating and air conditioning.  The average cost to heat and cool a 2,000 sq. ft. home is approximately $1.00 per day – no other system that I know of can beat that.

While the heat pumps use electricity to operate, the system is very efficient as it does not use the air’s temperature but rather the earth’s temperature.   Geothermal systems use the temperature of the Earth just a few feet below ground level where temperatures remain fairly stable from 45 degrees – 60 degrees Fahrenheit year around.

Geothermal heating and cooling systems consist of a heat pump, ground looping coils, heat exchange fluid, heating/cooling ducts, and thermostat.  The heat pump is located inside your residence and is the main component of the system.  The heating/cooling ducts and thermostat are the same as any forced air heating and/or central air conditioning ducts, so if you are replacing your old units with a new Geothermal heating and cooling system then the duct work/thermostat replacement is not needed.

There are 4 types of ground loop systems:  three are closed looped (horizontal, vertical, and pond/lake) and the other is open looped. There are several variables that must be taken into consideration before the appropriate ground loop system is determined, such as available land, soil conditions, climate, and installation cost.  The ground looping coils are filled with refrigerant such as water or anti-freeze solution, the type of refrigerant depends on the looping system.  Water being the most commonly used refrigerant.

So if you are looking at replacing your heating and cooling systems or are building a new home you may want to consider a “Green”  energy efficient Geothermal Heating & Cooling System and remember to get a proposal from an experienced contractor who deals specifically with Geothermal Heating & Cooling Systems.

The cost effective energy improvements include upgrading of insulation, furnaces, central air systems, and windows.   These improvements will increase the home’s energy efficiency by at least 20%.   As many as 1,000 Illinois co-op homeowners have upgraded to high efficiency air-source heat pumps (doubles energy efficiency – 200%), or ultra-high efficiency geothermal heat pump systems (350% – 400% energy efficient).  By the time the HomE program ends (July 2011), it is anticipated that the equivalent of 20 million kilowatts hours of electricity will be saved each year in Illinois alone.  Additionally, 5,000 metric tons of carbon dioxide will be removed from the atmosphere each year.

If you live in a rural area and are serviced by an electric cooperative, from any state, check out what services and/or rebates are available through the American Recovery and Reinvestment Act.  Act soon before the funds are gone.

A bidet is a “Green” innovation – think how many trees we could save.  Purchasing a bidet would definitely pay for itself by the amount of money we spend on toilet paper alone. They are very hygienic and can be used for medically needed sitz baths as well as for senior citizens, the disabled/handicapped, and overweight people with limited mobility.

A bidet doesn’t necessarily have to cost a lot of money.  The non-electric seat bidet attachments can be as simple as a hand shower spray attached to your cold water connection. However, a better option would be to purchase a bidet attachment that can connect to both hot and cold water connections.  This can be rather simple if your toilet is next to your bathroom sink.    Non-electric cold/hot water bidets range from approximately $70.00 – $150.00.   The non-electric bidet hoses are ran between the toilet and toilet seat.  The non-electric bidet is a definite “Green” product – no electricity and no paper.

The next fairly inexpensive version of a bidet is actually an electric bidet toilet seat and it connects to any standard electrical outlet.  The electric bidet has many variations or should I say bells and whistles.  Such bells and whistles are warm water, retractable hoses/sprayers, oscillating and/or pulsating water, front and rear washing, warm air to dry your derriere, warm toilet seat, massaging features, deodorizers, motion sensors to lift/lower the seat or to flush it, and wireless remote control.  The cost for an electric bidet toilet seat can range anywhere from approximately $350.00 – $500.00.  In my opinion the electric bidet toilet seat is the best option, it’s affordable, it’s easy to install, doesn’t take up any additional room, has all the bells and whistles, and takes as little as 20 minutes to install.

Of course, if you really want to be fancy you can install a stand alone bidet.  Many stand alone bidets are only used for washing and you still need a toilet.   You will see most stand alone bidet in high end hotels and restaurants.  Stand alone bidet can be rather expensive and range anywhere from $500.00 – $3,000.00.

I have considered changing my old standard thermostat for quite some time, but never got around to it, until it actually stopped working.  I found it was a lot easier than expected.  Save yourself money and do it yourself.

First, choose the thermostat right for you.    Most thermostats are fairly inexpensive – programmable and touch screen thermostats range anywhere from $25.00 – $100.00 with the average being about $50.00.  The old standard models are $25.00 – $50.00, so you may as well purchase a programmable thermostat and save energy costs by up to 33% setting the thermostat – higher (air) or lower (heat) when you aren’t home.    If you are a frequent traveler you may want to consider the Trane Remote Energy Management Thermostat which is on high scale of $150.00.  It can be controlled from a computer or phone with internet access.  The Trane Remote Thermostat is compatible with Schlage Link Systems.  Not only can you control the thermostat but you can control Schlage compatible door key pads, lights, and cameras.  The program will cost $12.00 a month but if you are away from home often it is a definite benefit.

First, shut-off the power to the room where the thermostat is located – push the breaker to off position in the breaker box.  Then remove the faceplate from the old thermostat.  Unscrew the old standard thermostat with Phillips screwdriver.  Newer models may just twist or pull off.  Next unscrew and remove the back plate.  If you have an older model thermostat it may contain mercury so be careful not to break the mercury tubing and check with a local recycling company, as to how to dispose the mercury contained thermostat.  (save your existing thermostat for a few weeks in case your new thermostat does not function properly).  Before you disconnect the wires make note of which wires go where (they should have different color and/or lettered tips), you will either have to unscrew/twist by hand counterclockwise (lefty loosey) or just pull loose.

Now you’re ready to install the new thermostat, match the new thermostat wires to the existing wires in your wall and connect (again this should be color coded or lettered), put the wires back in the wall and then commence to screw the new wall plate to the wall.  If the new thermostat has different color or letter wire connectors then check with instructions included with the thermostat, the instructions will tell you how to connect the mismatched wires.  Please note, if you mismatch the wires the thermostat will not work properly and may cause damage to your electrical system.  Use a level if necessary and mark on the wall where the new wall plate should be attached to the wall, and then use a Phillips screwdriver to screw the new wall plate on the wall.  Then snap on the new front wall plate.  Finally, turn back on the breaker and set your new thermostat.

Overall
* Clear the path.
* Do not clutter the room.
* Minimize furniture and accessories/knick knacks – less is more.
* Use cool light colors and monochromatic palette – make rooms seem larger than they are.
* A light color floor gives the illusion of more space and creates a serene environment.
* Lighting – use recessed lighting, places uplights and downlights.
* Hang a flat screen TV on the wall.
* Small print wallpaper makes rooms look smaller, use open flowing designs when installing wallpaper.
* Closets – use closet organizer and mount shelves.

Low Ceilings
* Striped wallpaper or vertical wallpaper will add height to ceilings.
* Grouping of various size pictures arranged in a more horizontal pattern will elevate the feeling of height.
* Sloped ceilings such as dormer roof lines should be painted the same color as walls to minimize sloped effect.

Living Room
* Make use of pieces that do double duty such as coffee and end tables that also serve as storage.

Bedroom
* Utilize space under beds (bedskirts will cover items stored under beds.)
* If you have a loft style apartment – use beds that retract from either the floor or ceiling.

Bathroom
* Expand sink counter top over toilet (will not be a standard size bathroom sink top). This type counter
top will need to be fabricated/cut to designated lengths/widths.
* Use wall hung vanities which do not extend to the floor. Wall hung vanities give an appearance of a
larger room.
* Use shelving or recessed medicine cabinet.
* Limit the amount of towels stored in the bathroom; use over the door racks for towels.
* If you have access to a hall closet, use it for bathroom storage.
* Use one(1) piece of larger art instead of lots of small pieces.
* If using shower doors – trade a frosted glass door for a clear one. Better yet don’t use a shower
door at all – use shower curtains that can be pushed back.

Kitchen
* U-shaped or galley kitchens utilize small spaces wonderfully.
* Install an island at end of a U-shaped or galley kitchen to create an eat-in kitchen while utilizing
the cabinets below.
* Put bills and paperwork in small baskets or boxes.
* Large floor tiles make a kitchen look larger.
* Include a pullout pantry and/or lazy Susan cabinets.
* Create a full wall of cabinets which extends to the ceiling and include a refrigerator in the center
section of space.
* Purchase a counter top depth refrigerator which also has a reduced door swing.
* Install a basic stove range with bottom storage instead of a broiler.

 The best temporary fixes are bay leaves, peppermint (leaves/spray/tea bags), whole cloves, cucumber slices,  and powder (baby/talcum/chalk).    Put them anywhere you notice ants such as on counter tops, cabinets, and/or counter tops.   You can double up these natural items such as lining your cabinets near the doors with powder and then put a couple leaves (bay or peppermint under cabinet liners) or whole cloves at each end.  The ants do like walking across the powder and the ants don’t like the strong smell of the leaves or cloves.

Several other temporary variations have been suggested to be applied on the trails or entry ways of ants such as vinegar, cinnamon, black pepper, cayenne – red chili pepper, hot curry paste, lemon juice, coffee grounds, garlic cloves. 

Then you have the long term fix the powdery substance Diatomaceous Earth (which consists of fossilized remains of diatoms  – hard shelled algae).   Diatomaceous Earth dehydrates the insect.  This works as well as toxic Boric Acid w/sugar and water mixture (which are main ingredients for the retail product Terro).  Line cabinets, counter tops, ant entry ways, ant trails, and/or the complete outside perimeter of your residence.   You can also use Diatomaceous Earth to control other house hold pests such as:  ticks, fleas, aphids, silverfish, cockroaches, bed bugs, spiders, carpet beetles, slugs, snails, tomato hornworms, house flies, fruit flies, red spider mites, and earwigs.   The only safety issues are that you want to wear a safety mask so you don’t inhale the powdery substance and wear gloves so that it doesn’t dry out your skin.

 Diatomaceous Earth may be one(1) of Earth’s most impressive recycled product. It has various uses, such as a filtration aid (ie pool filters), mild abrasive (ie toothpaste, metal polishes, and & facial scrubs),  medical (ie de-worming products both animals and humans and as a feed additive for livestock and poultry to improve the health of  the animals), soil additive used in hydroponic gardens (it retains water and nutrients),  liquid absorbent (ie cat litter, toxic liquid clean up), activator in blood clotting studies , a stabilizing component of dynamite, thermal insulator (heat resistant),  and but not least DNA purification.

If weather stripping on exterior doors  is deteriorated, a large of amount of cold air can evade your home and also cause higher electrical bills.  Weather stripping is fairly simple to replace.  First remove the old weather stripping – grab weather stripping at one end and pull.  If the adhesive is still secure at locations than apply alcohol over weather stripping to help dissolve the adhesive.  Once you have removed the weather stripping, remove any adhesive residue with soapy water and a scrubbing pad.

Measure the frame of the door  (width & length) and then visit your local hardware store.  There are various types of weather stripping available such as foam, rubber, metal, etc.    Ask one of the hardware representative’s  which weather stripping would be best for the area in which you live.

Cut the weather stripping to the length needed and then place it up to the door and remeasure the door with cut sections before you permanently attach it to your door.    You are now ready to install the weather stripping; keep the door open during installation.

Nailable Weather  Stripping – (First – Always wear protective glasses when installing metal weather stripping).    Start at the beginning of the weather stripping and then hammer in nails about every 12 inches, then again at the end of the weather stripping.

Adhesive Weather  Stripping -   Pull off backing in sections and adhere to door, do not remove the backing all at one time.  If you try to remove the backing all at once then you may end up with a sticky mess and loose some of the adhesive.

Some types of weather stripping may use both adhesive and nails.  Make sure the weather stripping does not buckle and that it fits snug.  The final test is to close the door and feel if there is any cold air coming into your home.

You start up your walkway with an armload of groceries.  You cannot see into your neighbor’s yard because of his “privacy fence,” and this privacy fence does not let you see anything inside the yard at all.  The privacy fence was most likely given its name because property owners don’t want their neighbors knowing too much about their lifestyle….or possibly what goes on over there.  That’s ok.   BUT, as you walk toward your house, all of a sudden, what sounds to be a huge dog pounces at the fence and bellows a deep, vicious, non-stop bark. Your heart skips a beat and nearly stops.  You hear your neighbor yell “no” to his pet several times and the barking stops.  Your heart then drops from your throat back into your chest.  (Why does this always happen when you’re carrying 2-liter bottles of soda?).  Then something snaps in you one day.  “Hey, how come this guy has the right to be private, while I undergo chest pains every night when I come home?  What’s wrong with this picture?  That dog comes from out of nowhere every night and scares me half to death.”

So, neighbors around the world, take into serious consideration, issues of a privacy fence.  How about a privacy fence that allows some exposure if for no other reason at all than to keep your neighbor from having a heart attack when Bruiser, or Killer, or Max decides to lunge like a Stealth bomber into the fence without warning, just to let them know they’re there.

There are a number of privacy fence screen companies to use and compare.  Screening materials come in greens, browns, grays, and whites to name a few colors.  They are exactly what they sound like—screen, but they vary in texture and structure.  They do not give 100% privacy, but are definitely worth researching on the Internet.   The websites are too numerous to mention, but search out “privacy fence screen.”  Many privacy screens add a decorative touch and are less expensive than alternative fencing features, as well.  One of those features includes being able to see that the neighbor’s dog is about to go into Stealth attack mode.

Please let us know what you think about privacy fence screening features.